What makes Granada famous is the Alhambra, a complex of fortresses, palaces, gardens, and a host of other structures on top a spectacular viewpoint, all achieving World Heritage status. Our Caspin Tour leader, Antonio, must be making up for lost hiking time because before the walk up to the iconic landmark (from the bottom of town), we had to first walk up the adjacent hill, into the neighborhood of the Albayzín and look across the Darro river to appreciate the sheer magnitude of the Alhambra. Check, very much appreciated!
Of course we then had to walk all the way down and climb back up the same elevation. What mitigated my normal "grumpy-uphill-mood" was the beautiful stonework in the streets and pathways. A steep slog usually has me just staring at my feet as I trudge to the earworm of "Volga Boatmen", but there is so much delightful artistry under foot I even agreed to climb back up again for a sunset view this evening.
We had to show our passports to enter the Alhambra. Having read many travel blogs about the risk of pickpockets and purse snatchers, I decided to heed the advice of Rick Steeves about money belts. But I wanted something comfortable and not anything wrapped around my waist, so I made Mark and myself "neck pockets", which consist of a sleeve that just fits a passport and which hangs from soft straps around the neck to about solar plexus level. Very comfortable. What I hadn't thought of was, that while this totally hides and makes my passport secure, to retrieve the passport requires lifting up my shirt and squirrel-ing around trying to get the dang thing out of its sleeve. I had to do this twice at two different gates in the Alhambra. They still let me in but it's back to the design studio when i get home.
Once inside, we had a wonderful few hours of trying to absorb as much detail as possible. Our local guide, Paulina, was most excellent and the radio earbuds are so much nicer these days, allowing you to be in crowded areas but hearing only your guide. I do need to point out that, while it was sunny, the temperature in the shade was in the mid 40's. I was bundled in a padded vest and coat and still needed to pause in sunshine whenever I could to warm up.
The downside of one-way radio comms is getting lost. At one point, I was closely examining some plaster work while listening to Paulina when she suddenly cut out. I turned to see lots of people but none of them mine. Not knowing where they went, I drifted in various directions until I picked up her voice. I then had to radio-locate, losing and regaining signal a couple of tmes before finally spotting the taller members of my possee. Suffices to say I do not remember what I saw during that period, or who I trampled over, but it was a thrilling three minutes.
Finishing our tour, we had lunch just outside the last gate. Again, three courses chosen from a small but quite adequate menu selection for each course. This is the first meal I feel I've biologically earned.
The restaurant was lined with original art, not necessarily good art, but interesting. I was bemused by the painting high up on the wall next to our seats. I was convinced the artist added a third breast to the insanely smiling senorita, at least it looked like that from my angle. Upon standing up and looking back, she resolved into normalcy, but see what you think.
Our second Caspin guide, Jim (from Toronto but resident of Spain for many years and best-est interpreter!), led a few of us through the histroical Jewish quarter. We stopped at one of the thousands of fruiting orange trees for a taste. We'd already learned that the oranges from these most common trees are inedible, being very bitter, and Jim was going to give any who wanted to test this premise a sample taste. All I can say is yum! It certainly wasn't a sweet orange, but it wasn't far off from being a damn good lemon, and I like lemons!
We were set free for the evening and would forage for dinner ourselves. After a few hours rest, Mark and I headed back up to the Albayzin to shoot the Alhambra at twilight. The crowds were thick and we were among many with the same destination. It took patience and some determined squiggling to get a good position at the wall overlooking the Alhambra, but it was worth it.
With only one quick Google map check, we found our way back down the hill, navigating narrow, shop-line streets frequently scented with spices and insense. Mark earned a Gelato and I treated myself to a simple cured Iberian ham sandwich along the way. A perfect dinner for a perfect day.
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