After a hearty breakfast we are getting very accustomed to a guide and limovan picking us up every day for a new adventure. We are also accustomed to grey days and rain. This morning we met Delores who was going to show us two Gaudi architectural highlights of Barcelona. The first is Parc Güell.
Barcelona experienced rapid urban expansion as industrial revolution blossomed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Eusebi Güell, a Catalan industrialist and art patron, sought to commission a new park-like community, targeting wealthy families seeking less congestion than in the city. Güell commissioned the design of the park to the renowned architect, Antoni Gaudí. In today's terms, Güell would be called a developer with a "built it and they will come" attitude.
The park was designed and divided into sixty lots. Gaudi completed some of the infrastructure, including elevated roads, walkways, gatehouses, and a "hypostyle" market structure with a rooftop plaza.
Other than the gatehouses, only two homes were built, neither by Gaudi. One of these was a model home. When it became clear no one was going to buy it, Güell convinced Gaudi to buy it. Gaudi lived there and used it as a work space until his death in 1926 (he was hit by a tram). The park was a failure as a development, but the design and structures are now an integral part of a beautiful botanical eden. About 9 million people visit the park every year, so forgive me if there are strangers in my photos!
Next up, the Sagrada Familia. Wikipedia leads with the fact that it is the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. I think a better lead would be "Wow!! A huge cathedral riveling medieval ones and soon to be finished (soon, as in cathedral-years, kind of like dog-years but in reverse)! Seriously, hopes are it will be finished next year, the centennial anniversary of Gaudi's death. When complete, the Jesus Christ spire will make this the tallest cathedral in the world.
"Pardon our dust", as our building signs would read, and with all the cranes, workers, and scaffolding in view, they just might make that goal of next year. Mary told us when she was here 30 years ago, there were some walls, but no roof. And not a lot of tourists, either.
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| View of the design workroom where all features of the church are modeled |
Construction of the Cathedral began in 1882. It was designed as a much more a traditional, neo-gothic structure by Francisco Villar. Ho-hum. He had a disagreement with those promoting the project and resigned a year later. Gaudi was recommended and took charge and radically changed the design. The church was only about a quarter finished when Gaudi died. The Spanish Civil war interrupted construction and caused loss of some plans, but enough references and designs were left in Gaudi's workshop for work to start up again in 1950.
Gaudi's primary theme is light. The architecture and engineering have the weight of the church carried through parabolic arches and columns, allowing the walls and parts of the ceiling to be fenestrated. Huge stained glass windows change the mood of the church from cool blue greens in the mornmg to warm orange and red in the afternoon.
With sore necks from prolonged upward gazing, Dolores ushered us outside into, wait for it,.. pouring rain. Time to unfurl the umbrellas once more. I thought by now my little travel umbrella would be toast, but I believe it has earned a ride back home to Alaska and not into a hotel trash bin.
The wonderful limovan takes us back to Hotel Mimosa, we refresh ourselves, then head to lunch at Boca Grande, a well rated restaurant a block away. It is 2:00pm, after all, time for food.
The main streets may be bustling with heavy traffic and pedestrians, but the occasional small, block dividing narrow streets offer a quiet alternative. This is where we enjoy a wonderful lunch. No stand-up tables or elbowing for tapas, instead we have white linen and multiple wine glasses. This is one of the best meals I've had on the whole trip. Too bad it gave me food poisoning.
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| Spaghetti with fresh bivalves and shrimp |
Fully sated and done with walking and crowds for the day, we all nestled in our rooms to work on blogs or read or nap. A short while into my nap I began feeling not so well. Mark was snoozing comfortably so I just availed myself of the facilities (a very nice ensuite I might add) as quietly as I could. Regrettably forfeiting my lovely lunch, I decided it best if I just continued my nap on the bathroom floor. It was so nice and cool. That's the last thing I remember until I was sitting in a hospital waiting room hours later. Here's a plausible explanation. Something I ate, probably one of those beautiful mollusks, disagreed with me causing nausea, etc., and in this circumstance, amnesia. I got sick, I lost the ability to put short term memory into long term, and then I eventually got better. At the hospital, I was given a transfusion for dehydration, a CT scan (clean), and four perscriptons. I also got a memorable ride back to the hotel. I remember nothing in between the cool, comfortable floor and the waiting room. Weird.
When you are my age, occurrences like this can be scary, but in this situation, I wasn't the one scared. My sympathy, concern, and love is for Mark and my friends who had to witness the event and take care of me, not knowing what the outcome would be, and doing so in a foreign country.
My new punch line is, "as I recall...". Being a curious sort, I have a minor regret that none of my photographer buddies thought to video my apparently incessant questioning "Where am I?" and "Are we supposed to be here?". Molly will understand this curiosity of mine. And Mary says I should also regret not appreciating the cute doctor who tended to me in the hotel and who sent me to hospital. He was the same one who tended to Peter earlier.
I slept well. All is good.
C
Lunch
Hospital
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